Oaxaca, Oaxaca

October 2018

Boulenc is the bakery of all bakeries at least by Oaxaca’s standards. Where the typical Mexican panadería offers mainly variations of sweetened white bread, Boulenc bakes up rarities such as sourdough loaves (known as pan de masa madre in Spanish), pain au chocolat and fruit danishes as well as the best versions of Mexican classics like conchas. To be totally transparent, I haven’t actually tried one of their conchas so that statement’s technically an educated guess, but sometimes you can just tell.
Beyond that, Boulenc also has full restaurant menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Officially the bakery and restaurant function individually, but they’re attached by an open doorway, and you can pick out pastry in the bakery to have put on your bill and enjoy in the restaurant. Menu offerings ⏤ like kale and goat cheese croissant sandwiches, english muffins with egg, even the salads ⏤ tend to incorporate the bakery items, so either way you approach it you can get some of the goods. In the afternoons and evenings, a selection of wood-oven pizzas are available and there’s even a bar tucked away in the back serving up beer, wine and cocktails. 

On the bakery side, they also sell a selection of jams and preserves made by Suculenta. Many of them are made with Oaxacan-grown fruits and produce, and all of them contain only a short list of simple, natural ingredients. With non-traditional ⏤ from the American perspective, at least ⏤ marmalades like guava and hibiscus and spicy salsa macha, they are great little favors to bring home.

Boulenc isn’t exactly a quiet locals-only spot; during the morning rush you might expect to wait a bit for a table and you’ll hear plenty of English. But it’s popular for a reason, and even if the cuisine isn’t exactly Mexican, it still feels authentic.

Occasionally live music and events are planned in the evenings, so check their social media for what’s going on while you’re in town. Open from eighty-thiry a.m. until eight-thirty p.m. Monday through Thursday and until eleven p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday.

Boulenc | Instagram


Barrio Chino, Ciudad de México

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